“She’s certainly not bourgeois or classic,” said Vaccarello. “She has a huge respect for Saint Laurent, but not in the first degree. So I thought of her taking a vintage dress and cutting into it.” Anthony Vaccarello chose to hold his debut show for Saint Laurent in the impressive surroundings of a palatial building site—a former monastery, later a military headquarters, which has been derelict in the heart of Paris and is now being restored as the Saint Laurent headquarters.
Embracing the ’80s he played on it with plunging bustier tops in leather or velvet, pelmet skirts and boyfriend jeans, a section devoted to draped gold lamé, iterations of skinny smoking suits, and variations on one-sleeved dresses.
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